Trouble Getting My Loadmaster Dialed In

[6Gears1Speed]

I've adjusted everything I know how to adjust according to the instructions and some help here but I still get intermittent failures that I can't solve.

Currently I'm set up for 9mm like this:
#1 - Sizing die with no decapping pin. I'm hand priming so I don't want to deprime in process. Die set to hit shell plate.
#2 - Universal decapping die to provide pressure on that side of the shell plate so pressure is applied evenly around the shell plate.
#3 - Powder through expanding die. Die set just above shell plate.
#4 - Seating die. Die set to hit shell plate.
#5 - Crimp die. Die set to hit shell plate.

One problem I'm having right now is that intermittently the flipper on the indexing rod is not clearing the frame of the press on the way back in. Sometimes it does not extend past the frame on the way out and sometimes it does. If it does, every few cycles the flipper crashes into the frame on the way back in. I have to push it to clear the frame. I've adjusted the indexing rod according to instructions and if I move the carrier to the right it will not index. I don't know what else to do. Is it supposed to extend past the frame or not? It seems to depend on the amount of force used to cycle the ram. I've adjusted the flipper to properly index the shells so they don't crash into the dies on the way up.

Another problem is that the expanding die isn't expanding. When I set it up initially it was expanding but now it's not. It's very similar to the problem I've been having with the 45ACP setup. I can set the die all the way to the shell plate but for some reason it stops expanding so I have to hold the bullet or it will topple. I'm using copper plated bullets and so far there's no shaving but like above I don't know what else to do.

Not sure if it matters but after going through all sorts of lubes I settled on grease because it's the most slippery and doesn't require reapplication as often. I grease the ram, under the shell plate, case feeder platform and case feeder square rod. Every other lube I used required reapplication often and wasn't as slippery.

Any secret tips on how to get this running well consistently?

This is what it looks like when it works. The flipper clears the frame and goes back in properly.



This is what it looks like when it fails. I can do 6-8 good cycles then it will do this.

[guncheese]

im thinking the draw bolt isnt tight enough
and as a consequence the carrier isnt aligned properly
i cant help with the belling trouble but maybe you are not getting full stroke because of that alignment issue
here is a link to Lee's alignment video
http://leeprecision.net/HelpVideos/Load ... ment-1.wmv
and here is a link to all of Lee's loadmaster help videos
http://leeprecision.com/load-master-help-videos.html

these are on youtube as well
along with other helpful vids

[6Gears1Speed]

The bolt is definitely tight and I've adjusted the carrier according to the videos and written instructions.
I think if the carrier were off it would consistently fail. In my case it only intermittently fails. Most of the time it's like in the top picture but occasionally winds up too far left and crashes into the frame. The only thing I can think of is that if I sometimes move too fast it flings the indexing rod out which causes it to land to the left for some reason.

[Fyodor]

I would swap the dies in station one and two, so the case is sized in station two, where the primer is set. This is a hint I've heard a lot to prevent priming issues. But if it works well, no need to change.

I did have the belling issue with my 45, too. This die is made for jacketed bullets, and does only a very light flare, more or less straighten out dents only. When it didn't bell at all, I accidentally had two rubber o rings installed, one on the site, and another one on the pro auto disk. Maybe that's the same problem there, especially when it wasn't there from the beginning?

[6Gears1Speed]

I did have the sizer in location #2 for the reason you mentioned but I no longer prime in process so I moved it to #1 and the universal decapper in #2. Due to the priming system being less than 100% reliable I've gone back to hand priming. I don't mind. That way while I'm loading I don't have to worry about clogged priming tray, running out of primers etc... One less thing to keep an eye on.

As far as the Orings, on the autodisk base I have the thin metal locking washer installed first, then the Oring that holds that in place. I also have the larger Oring on the top of the die. Are you saying that the larger one on the top of the die is not used? I couldn't find anything on that so I assumed it was still used.

[Fyodor]

When I upgraded my pro1000 for a second caliber, I bought all items separately, including dies and powder measure. After installing the powder measure, the flaring die didn't do any flaring. After posting my problem here, I found out that there was one o ring on the die, and another one on the measure. They were identical, and only one was to be used.

If you bought the press set up in this caliber, this shouldn't be the reason. But you might compare with another turret that works correctly if you got one.

[6Gears1Speed]

I don't think that's correct unless we're using different equipment. The one that sits on the top of the powder through expanding die is slightly larger than the one on the Pro Auto Disk base that holds the lock washer in place.

Here's the Pro Auto Disk O ring (bottom of page). It sits on top of the lock washer that sits on top of the knurled adapter.

http://leeprecision.com/parts/powder-ha ... isk-parts/

Here's the powder through expanding die O ring (second line from the bottom of the page). It sits between the top of the die and the funnel adapter. You take the funnel adapter off and put the Auto disk on.

http://leeprecision.com/parts/reloading ... arb-parts/

I always thought you used both because they serve two purposes but I don't really know.

[Steve]

When I set this LM up I had some problems similar to yours with the flipper. The flipper turned so hard on the threads it caused problems. I ground the tapered portion off a 1/4 - 28 bottom tap. used it to chase the threads in the plastic flipper. Then it rotated on the threads without a lot of force. Also note in the picture where mine comes out. If I am hurrying it will come out as far as yours does but still operates OK.

You may want to revisit the carrier alignment. My flipper is just touching the frame at the point shown in picture 2, even light force to pull it away does not produce a gap. But it is not overly tight against the frame.

flipper.jpg

flipper2.jpg

[6Gears1Speed]

I set mine the same way. Just touching the frame in that location. After many test cycles with no load I've come to the conclusion that I occasionally use too much force which drives the indexing rod out too far. Sometimes it still works but once in a while it lands too far left for some reason. Maybe it's rebounding off the carrier or something. I think I just have to be more conscious about moving with less force. I've had the indexing rod come flying out completely a few times. I also think I have too much lube on the rod (chuckle chuckle).

So that's one down. The open question is whether I need both O rings or just the one on the Auto Disk as I described above with the links.

By the way, I bought this used so nothing was in place that I could record in notes. I got a box of parts and had to figure out how it all worked. Not only that but it was filthy so I tore it completely apart, cleaned every square inch and put it back together. My friend who has a LM eventually came over and helped with the final adjustment but I did most of it. It was a good learning experience but it took a lot of time. Hopefully the only thing remaining is to get the expander to work right. Everything else seems to be working now.

[Fyodor]

If the two o rings sit on top of each other, use only one. Give it a try, and check if your situation gets any better.

Every progressive loader needs it's own pace. That's true for the LoadMaster, but it's also true to much more expensive brands. When you realized the indexing problem happens when you pull to fast, slow down a bit. You'll find the right pace, and then it'll work perfectly. I needed to get tuned to my pro1000, too, and in the beginning I was going too fast as well.