1st loads

[357cyrus]

Which will cause differences in pressure.

[akuser47]

357 Cyrus got it all following this should help you get better consistency as well. I need to buy the dillion swager one of these days love the one my buddy uses. Wish it was cheaper.

[62chevy]

In the second picture the primer on the far left, that dent is caused by junk in your primer arm cup.

The info on crimps is spot on. I ream the 308 primer pockets using the Lee Chamfer Tool.

[357cyrus]

[quote=.I tumbled them with used primers[/quote]


Take extra precautions with lead exposure if you're tumbling before you deprime. The spent primer is a major source of lead.

[SureshotArms]

I appreciate all the info guys! I did tons of research before I started and somehow missed the crimped primers. I was going to purchase some .223 brass so I will look for some without the crimping to save me time. Any suggestions on where to shop for brass?

[62chevy]

I appreciate all the info guys! I did tons of research before I started and somehow missed the crimped primers. I was going to purchase some .223 brass so I will look for some without the crimping to save me time. Any suggestions on where to shop for brass?

I find the cheapest brass is once fired and for 223/556 and 308/762 that is usually military brass. As others have said most brass in those calibers have crimps.

try one of these sites as I have gotten brass from both.

http://ammobrasstrader.gunloads.com/for ... ass-Trader

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php

In cast boolits you will need to scroll down to the bottom for the Swapping and Selling section.

[mr surveyor]

I would strongly suggest using a Lee Universal Depriming die before sizing/swaging/reaming. Sort the brass first and keep the crimped brass separated so it can be properly primer pocket prepped after depriming.

Actually, I use the Universal Depriming die on all of my brass as a first step before dropping it into the ultrasonic bath .... everything tends to stay much cleaner.


jd

[357cyrus]

I will look for some without the crimping to save me time. Any suggestions on where to shop for brass?

I could be wrong, but as far as I know the crimp doesn't get applied till after the primer is seated by whoever/whatever is loading... So if youre buying brand new brass, you won't find any already crimped.

[Model 52]

Crimped primers only show up on some types of military brass. Most often 5.56x45 NATO and 7.62x51mm NATO, and .30-06 (both US and Greek HXP). US brass will have a crimp all the way around while some foreign brass will have three small crimp marks around the primer, but they are not as obvious as the all the way around US crimp.

Military match brass is not crimped, so anything thing that says "match" on it in .30-06 and .7.62x51mm NATO can just be processed like commercial brass.

----

The other thing to be aware of with 7.62x51mm NATO brass is that it has much thicker case walls than .308 commercial brass, so you'll need to reduce the load by about 10% compared to commercial .308 brass.

It is not an issue with military .30-06 brass, nor is it an issue with 5.56x45mm NATO brass - they all have capacities similar to their commercial .30-06 and .223 Rem counterparts.

[SureshotArms]

Thanks for all the info, I'm glad you guys are here to help. None of the manuals I have mention anything about crimps nor the does the online guides I have read thru. Looks like it's common on military calipers so I won't see it when I start my pistol loads up!