Mold handles

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beekeeper

Mold handles

Post by beekeeper »

OK I admit I smack my mold handles with a stick!
Was thinking there had to be a better way so was wondering if anyone had ever used some kind of handle to open the sprue on a 2 cavity mold?
If so what does it look like?
Maybe something to slip over the handle so it could be used on multiple molds?

A mean dirty old man wants to know.
Just kidding!!


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Re: Mold handles

Post by Fyodor »

I think a carefull smack is just the way to do it. At least my friends who cast both do it that way.
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Re: Mold handles

Post by 62chevy »

Had a hammer loss it's head so now the handle does duty as a sprue whacker on two cavity molds.
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Re: Mold handles

Post by Ranch Dog »

Buy a 1" hardwood dowel and cut it to a length that suits you.

Buffalo Arms offers two mold mallets specifically for this purpose. I've been using the synthetic mallet for a decade.
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Re: Mold handles

Post by Missionary »

Greetings beekeeper
Was at a yard sale about 30 years ago. Bought a bucket of hickory hammer handles for $5. Been using them to pop sprue plates open all that time. There were 10 in the bucket and I am not through #2 yet. Did use two others to replace a hatchet handle and a hammer handle.
Down here I have a chunk of tornillo. This is a very hard wood that once it dries you have to drill to get a nail in.
There was a Sponser at Castboolits that was selling a "slip on" handle for molds. Last I saw of his add was about 2 years ago.
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Re: Mold handles

Post by Maximumbob54 »

It would thrill me to no end if Lee would offer a kit to modify the two cavity molds to use the cam lever like the six cavity molds use. The few remaining two cavity molds I use would just be that much easier to use. I did find a guy that makes steal sprue plates but I've never had a problem with the aluminum. He does make cam lever sprue plates for the Lyman four cavity molds but I've never had reason to buy a Lyman mold yet and only used borrowed ones.
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Re: Mold handles

Post by mikld »

I believe the sprue plates are designed to be smacked with a mallet. But, I've read of some casters that like to use a gloved hand to open the sprue plate. I've seen a few loooong threads about this on other forums. Seems like it's more "manly" to grab the sprue plate and give it a twist to cut the sprue than chance damage to the mold by pounding on it with a mallet... :lol:
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Re: Mold handles

Post by Ranch Dog »

mikld wrote:I believe the sprue plates are designed to be smacked with a mallet. But, I've read of some casters that like to use a gloved hand to open the sprue plate. I've seen a few loooong threads about this on other forums. Seems like it's more "manly" to grab the sprue plate and give it a twist to cut the sprue than chance damage to the mold by pounding on it with a mallet... :lol:
If it takes more than a tap, something is wrong.
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Re: Mold handles

Post by 62chevy »

Finally maned up and gave the gloved hand a try yesterday and it worked with wheel weight alloy. Cast about 350 boolits with only a few rejects. Thick leather gloves are a God sent when casting, hands don't get hot and the ladle is cool to the touch with gloved hands. Yup did it once with out never again.
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Re: Mold handles

Post by Maximumbob54 »

Where do you buy gloves thick enough to touch a hot mold??? I bought the thickest gloves that I could find at Home Depot and they protect my hands from the stray splat of hot lead but no way would I just grab the hot mold blocks.... :oops:
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