Lee Loader

I have loaded thousands of rounds for my pistols and understand and know what to look for I have never loaded for revolvers and absolutely new to whata roll crimp should be except of course not so crimped that it deforms the Bullet. I've included a couple photos I would appreciate any input.

From what I can see, the bullet should be seated a but deeper. I like to have the case mouth at least midway in the cannalure, but prefer the case mouth be a few thousandths below the upper edge of the cannalure. The crimp itself looks OK but I don't think I'd go any heavier. Pull the bullet and check for any deformation from the crimp...

mikld wrote:From what I can see, the bullet should be seated a but deeper. I like to have the case mouth at least midway in the cannalure, but prefer the case mouth be a few thousandths below the upper edge of the cannalure. The crimp itself looks OK but I don't think I'd go any heavier. Pull the bullet and check for any deformation from the crimp...

COL . Measures 1.56

Generally if the bullet has a cannelure, you crimp in that. I am not saying to completely disregard the COL but it isn't as important as loading something like the 9mm were the COL is CRITICAL. Some people like to crimp in the top of the cannelure with none showing, others right in the middle, don't know of any that like to crimp in the bottom but it probably has been done.
Your crimp looks pretty heavy but not bad.

Nope.

I could not care less where the arbitrary dotted line is. Load it to the proper depth for the bullet WEIGHT and charge. Make sure it's the proper OAL to work in the intended firearm.

One thing that helps with .357 (or other straight walls) is cast bullets where you care about the waistline (waste line?) even less.

I still have no idea why anyone would load jacketed in .357...or several other cartridges.

GasGuzzler wrote:Nope.

I could not care less where the arbitrary dotted line is. Load it to the proper depth for the bullet WEIGHT and charge. Make sure it's the proper OAL to work in the intended firearm.

One thing that helps with .357 (or other straight walls) is cast bullets where you care about the waistline (waste line?) even less.

I still have no idea why anyone would load jacketed in .357...or several other cartridges.

I couldn't drive cast fast enough with any kind of accuracy to knock over 200 yard rams.

Stay well, be safe, make smoke,

Touche'

I'm not using a .357 to shoot ANYTHING at 200 yards.

I use cast, plated and one type jacketed in 38 spl and 357 mag. I don't have a rifle in either calibre. Here is the jacketed bullet. I role crimp into the middle of the cannelure. I also use all three bullet types in 45 colt..

It is easy to deform a bullet with a role crimp. I seat and crimp seperately and use a factory crimp die as case length is not critical. If you have proper neck tension a light crimp should prevent bullet creep in revolvers. I do medium crimp for heavier loads but then tend to use the plated or jacketed bulllete.

I crimp in the top of the cannelure and as long as it fits in the chamber for length I'm good. I use probably what most would call a heavy crimp. I've had bullets jump crimp and tie up the gun albeit not with "pedestrian" loads, but I still crimp all loads the same. If I run my fingernail down the ogive of the bullet to below the case neck I don't want to "feel" the case neck as I pass over it and that's plenty of crimp. I've done this either crimping separately or with just the seating die, no difference for me.


EDIT:
I probably should have added that all I load in my revolvers are cast bullets. That heavy of crimp possibly could make a difference vs using a plated bullet but not a jacketed bullet designed for the caliber.

If you work up a load at a particular OAL it doesn't matter what it is . Unless you're one of those gotta have top speeds or it's worthless guys , I'm more of a 1 where it needs to be over 5 close . I'm a lousy bench shooter so I need all the help I can get .