The ratings seem to be where you look. Amazon is 4.7 of 5.
I wonder if I'm not having the flash hole issue because I deburr my flash holes? I've done that for... 30 years or so. I use a
K&M Tool.
Just about every manufacturer of reloading equipment, other than Lee, offers these tools now. Back then they were hard to find and I enjoyed working with K&M. It was a small home-based company, the initials being husband and wife. They have passed and the business moved on.
Flash holes are punched through the pocket, leaving a "star" burr of brass extending into the interior of the case. Of course, the primary reason to remove it is that it causes uninformed ignition. I'm sure you have had a propane torch that has ended up with a spider in one of the ports. The flame cannot get up to heat, and you can't control your work.
The first time you spin the tool, you will be like "holly chit!" You won't believe how bad they are, and that extends to all brass. Some worse than others, but present on all. The flash hole work is a one time fix. Every case I shoot has had the work; 25 Auto through 45-70 Govt.
The last cleaning was the 25 Auto, and like all the others, I shake it in the media bin and bag it. No dust of need to wipe it down.
Steel pins are no problem-free. I'm still finding them in odd places. I bought all kinds of pins, some costly, but supposedly to end problems that I was having. Not. Seeing them in the brass after all the work to free them was not unusual. I've had them impact my 218 Bee and 25-20 Win. Brass for both of these cartridges are tough to get and costly; otherwise, I would have tossed all of it. It took hours to correct.
I know not many others don't load 25 Auto, but this was a problem with the 25-20 Win as well. Not so bad on the rifle cartridge but a real issue with the pistol. Once my brass is cleaned, it goes straight to the press as all the other prep work as done. With the 25 Auto, this was a real problem because it went straight to the collator. What was unique about this issue is that it was not going to fall out under any circumstances. These lodged pins need needlenosed pliers to remove them. It will "F" up a Load-Master something terrible.
At the time, I was loading the 25-20 Win on the turret press, so with that being hands-on, it was easier to catch, but it still needed to be removed with pliers.
As I said, most of us probably are fixed in thought on this. But to explain why is more than a sentence. I would never go back to wet pins. I think your wash (GG) is more effective and less of a hassle. I would do that. As a note, my reloading room is part of a large garage/barn with its own water heater. That heater is set at max. Its amazing how really hot water will clean.