LoadMaster Up and Running

[Ranch Dog]

I use the chain and reset without issue. If you are right on the cusp of getting the reset or not, the first thing I would check would be how much space is between the Auto Drum's Slider and housing.



At the start, I set the rifle charging die up with the slide a popsicle stick off the top of the slot, I know you get tired of hearing about the durn stick, but it is what it is. From there, if needed, I screw the charging die in until I get a positive reset. It normally is not needed, but if it is, it is not much of an adjustment.

For grins, this is a screenshot of how segmented turn of the die are reflected in length.



Also, something isn't set correctly with the chain breaking. I don't understand that at all as it is designed to slip. Before I left the house, I checked it on all four of my presses; 30 Carbine, 9mm Luger, 45 Auto, and 7.62x39. I couldn't break the chain if I want as it would leave the plastic retainer.

Back to the Drum leaking. I had a lot of problems due to my inability to provide a consistent tension to the retaining screw. My fingers just didn't work with that small knob. The Titan Finger wrench changed that. With it, it's very easy to make fine adjustments that would probably stop the leak.

[Ranch Dog]

As a note, with any cartridge that uses a Powder Through Expander Die (PTED), it is very easy to set up the AutoDrum. In that the PTEDs are case length specific, it is simply the distance that the Auto Drum's slider needs to move to rotate the drum to the dump position. I'll express that distance in die body rotation in the following steps.

• Start by leaving the funnel adapter screwed into the die and the die off the turret plate.
• Place a case in the shell holder and raise the ram to the top of its stroke.
• Thread the die into the turret plate until it makes contact with the case mouth.
• Lower the ram and screw the PTED in 5 1/4 turns. Set a lock ring. Remove the funnel adapter. Mount the AutoDrum.
• Test a case while monitoring the slider against the top of the slot.

[klr]

Thanks for the info. I'll double check everything when I set up for 9mm. The .223 uses a sliding funnel in the charging die. I spent more time on the powder measure set up than anything else. It wasn't the chain that broke; it was the plastic part that the ball chain pops through. I adjusted the AD up and down repeatedly and I couldn't find a happy medium between too tight and too loose. I let the chain find its own length per the instructions. It worked for a while then this piece broke.



I made a tool for the Auto Drum and tightened it up a little. Hopefully that takes care of it. I made it out of wood to match my popsicle stick.

[Ranch Dog]

I like that wooden knob! I still think the setup on your rifle charging die is incorrect. I use the same die with the 7.62x39, the Small charging die. As a note, I've never have had a primer on an empty case unseat a bullet.

If I have any powder spill on my presses, especially the Load-Master, I stop everything and clean it up. I have found the kernels, flakes, or whatever shape extremely abrasive. I've had them drop inside the groove of the shell-holders and really screw things up with off-centered cases. So, I'd rather take an empty case than a double charge spill.

[klr]

I still think the setup on your rifle charging die is incorrect. I use the same die with the 7.62x39, the Small charging die. As a note, I've never have had a primer on an empty case unseat a bullet.

Okay, I'm getting ready to change powder and bullets. I'll pull it apart and reinstall it after going over your and Lee's instructions again.

If I have any powder spill on my presses, especially the Load-Master, I stop everything and clean it up. I have found the kernels, flakes, or whatever shape extremely abrasive. I've had them drop inside the groove of the shell-holders and really screw things up with off-centered cases. So, I'd rather take an empty case than a double charge spill.

Yep, I've pulled the shell holder and primer setup twice now to clean everything. It's a pain.

[klr]

I repaired the chain lever thing with some nylon thread and superglue:




Then I took everything off the press and took it apart to see exactly how everything works. I reinstalled it exactly per Lee's instructions and used your popsicle stick trick to set the powder measure travel.

It works perfectly now. Chain is not so tight now that the black lever is bending, yet even with a slow stroke it will click right at the end of the down stroke.

And my repair seems to be holding. I had 35 pieces of primed brass and with setting the powder charge and bullet seating depth and then loading those rounds it looks fine. BTW, the Auto Drum was throwing very accurate charges of Varget. Usually right on, but occasionally .1 or .2 low.

You need to get Lee to include the official RD popsicle stick with every press.

Thanks for the help.

[Ranch Dog]

Awesome! You are the man! It would be worth coming up with a list of these various parts that a "Load-Master" could order to keep in stock. They would all be free, just the single shipping fee.

In the meantime, maybe klr could market a custom "stick" kit the would include that nice knob for the AutoDrum.

Me, I think I will build a Load-Master out of popsicle sticks!

[klr]

I loaded some more on the Loadmaster last night and discovered a huge strike against it for my reloading situation. I'm loading 223 with 26 gr of Varget and the powder comes right to the base of the neck. When the shellholder indexes it slings a few granules of powder out of the case. Then not only am I left with a mystery charge of powder in my case, the powder gets on the press...and you know what that does.

[Ranch Dog]

Any chance of slowing the stroke of the ram down?

My 7.62x39 load is using a similar level of powder. This press is well worn in and smoothly rotates at any speed you need.

[Ranch Dog]

Just thinking in print here. How tight are the cases in the shell holder? How much wobble does the case have?