Mould Mods - 2C Handle Pins and Sprue-Plate Set-Screw
Posted: 26 Aug 2018 12:44
I did a search and didn't see what I intended to share - exactly. Not that my way is more right than others, but it does work and I'm pleased with the performance.
First mod I do on LEE 2C moulds is to install a 8-32 set screw to hold the sprue plate screw in place. I remove the sprue plate screw to clean a new mould and, once it's been messed with, it never seems to stay where you put it. This is a simple operation, so I won't go into detail unless asked, but I will share that when drilling/tapping aluminum, filling the flutes of the twist drill or tap with Crisco makes the job easy and the cuts are shiny and smooth. The shortening not only lubes, but it also captures the chips. If the chips get between the drill or tap and the walls of the hole, the hole will get bigger. Do NOT leave it (the shortening) on your tooling in the shop because the mice will be at it and leave you little brown presents on your work surfaces.
Second mod is new to me. I just got two moulds from Michael; (2) C309-113 2Cs. One has become a plain base mould and the other will retain the GC rebate but one cavity will get the HP treatment.
The "new" blocks are retained, as most of you know, by a weird, hybrid pin/sorta-screw, which can sometimes be removed with a hex wrench. I removed the blocks before reaming the GC shank out - one by hex wrench and the other by drill. It wasn't cooperating with the wrench at all.
A #29 drill will clear the pin hole in the handle tongs, completely remove the "threads" of the pin in the top of the block and leave a thin shell of the pin in the bottom hole of the blocks which easily wiggled out with a pair of needle-nose pliers. I used a #29 drill thinking I would tap it for an 8-32 screw to replace the pins I removed. The hex-shaped recess in the pins centers the drill very effectively.
Ended up taking the advice of a fella on another forum and used roll pins instead in stead of screws to re-attach the blacks to the handles. Using a 5/32" or #22 twist drill, I opened the pins holes in the blocks and went right on through the top so I could remove them later if I wished. 5/32"x3/4" roll pins are perfect. I used a #18 drill to clearance the holes in the handle tongs. These drill sizes, and the roll pin size are about max for what material you have to work with on the LEE 2C moulds.
This was my first experience with the newer 2C mold blocks.
First mod I do on LEE 2C moulds is to install a 8-32 set screw to hold the sprue plate screw in place. I remove the sprue plate screw to clean a new mould and, once it's been messed with, it never seems to stay where you put it. This is a simple operation, so I won't go into detail unless asked, but I will share that when drilling/tapping aluminum, filling the flutes of the twist drill or tap with Crisco makes the job easy and the cuts are shiny and smooth. The shortening not only lubes, but it also captures the chips. If the chips get between the drill or tap and the walls of the hole, the hole will get bigger. Do NOT leave it (the shortening) on your tooling in the shop because the mice will be at it and leave you little brown presents on your work surfaces.
Second mod is new to me. I just got two moulds from Michael; (2) C309-113 2Cs. One has become a plain base mould and the other will retain the GC rebate but one cavity will get the HP treatment.
The "new" blocks are retained, as most of you know, by a weird, hybrid pin/sorta-screw, which can sometimes be removed with a hex wrench. I removed the blocks before reaming the GC shank out - one by hex wrench and the other by drill. It wasn't cooperating with the wrench at all.
A #29 drill will clear the pin hole in the handle tongs, completely remove the "threads" of the pin in the top of the block and leave a thin shell of the pin in the bottom hole of the blocks which easily wiggled out with a pair of needle-nose pliers. I used a #29 drill thinking I would tap it for an 8-32 screw to replace the pins I removed. The hex-shaped recess in the pins centers the drill very effectively.
Ended up taking the advice of a fella on another forum and used roll pins instead in stead of screws to re-attach the blacks to the handles. Using a 5/32" or #22 twist drill, I opened the pins holes in the blocks and went right on through the top so I could remove them later if I wished. 5/32"x3/4" roll pins are perfect. I used a #18 drill to clearance the holes in the handle tongs. These drill sizes, and the roll pin size are about max for what material you have to work with on the LEE 2C moulds.
This was my first experience with the newer 2C mold blocks.