9mm Luger Bulge Busting

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9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by Ranch Dog »

larryw had asked me a question about using the Bulge Buster with 9mm Luger cases and I told him that I was in the process of working a bunch of cases and had planned to open a topic on the subject, so here it is.

I use the Bulge Buster with four cartridges; 380 & 45 Auto, and the 9mm Luger & Makarov.

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This week I started to prep cases for a run of 9mm Luger cases on the Load-Master. The only change to the press was the switch from the Auto Disk Pro to the Auto Drum. As I started to move the prepped cases through the first three stations to test the Auto Drum setup and Drum setting, I noticed that I could really feel the cases as they moved into the sizing die. With the Load-Master, anytime you can feel one die over the others, something needs to be checked out. I also noticed that as the case was pulled from the die, there was a bit of a pop. Some might say I need lube, but not I. When I feel what was felt, I need the Bulge Buster.

In the past, Lee had recommended the 9mm Makarov Carbide Factory Crimp Body for the 9mm Luger, but here is what they now say.

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I think they had meant "We have found that the 9mm cases are breaking the Carbide [ring] in the Carbide Factory Crimp Die."

larryw's question was why the Makarov die for the Luger to begin with. Well, the Luger has a tapered case so the die cavity is tapered as well. You could get the Luger case up into the Luger Carbide FCD die, but it will not push through the tapered body of the die. The spec for the Makarov's web is .3915' and the Luger's .3910 so all that works. The problem sits with the rim. The Makarov's is .3920" and the Luger .3940" which is greater that the Makarov's .3915" rim diameter. Both of these measurements on the 9mm's are probably why the carbide ring in the die is being stressed and is why they are longer recommend its use.

I continue to use the Makarov die body because I have not had a problem with the die and if the ring breaks, I will buy another die or die body. I look at this warning from Lee's perspective when I requested that the make collet Factory Crimp dies for the 357 Mag, 41 Mag, 44 Mag, and 45 Colt. I wanted to sell them through my mold business so that short case leverguns could benefit from the die just as longer cased leverguns have. Their objection was they felt the short length of the collet would not last a quarter of a million cycles. I told them that my customers would not care if they lasted only 10,000 cycles because 99% of the shooters would never see that round count. They did make them for me through special order, I never got a price break on them, and I had to order them 100 of each at a time. Now they offer these dies as an inventory item: Handgun Collett Style Factory Crimp Dies

So, my belief is that Lee worries are about the warranty issue which I don't have. I have approximately 10,000 rounds through the Makarov's die body without issue and as I said if the ring cracks I will replace it.

One of the issues I see with the "bulge" in the case is that the reloader who finally notices it when the round chambers short, starts chasing cartridge overall length issues that don't exist. I know from experience it can happen. Anyway, on I go with a couple of other tips I've learned from a lot of cases flowing through these dies.

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Secure the Case Catcher's top to the bottom with masking tape. Also, secure the entire Case Catcher to the press. As the Catcher fills, it will knock the top off as it fills past a 1/4 of its capacity. Eventually, the string of cases coming up through the die, supported by the cases in the catcher, will try to push the entire catcher off the die. You can tap the catcher to settle the cases as you see this taking place.

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Thread the Carbide Factory Crimp Die as far down in the press as possible and then shorten the press handle if possible and as far as possible. My Breech Lock Challenger press is limited by bench clearance. The first adjustment will place the die further down so it is easier to work with the case and the second adjustment will reduce your arm movement to a minimum. Once I start working, I'm moving the ram only far enough to work the case. The result is some really short strokes which speed up the operation. 1100 cases an hour which includes dumping the catcher a couple of times. As you feed cases, don'tt do it in your sleep! You will really pinch or cut your fingers!

[mod="Ranch Dog"]
Ranch Dog wrote:The spec for the Makarov's web is .3915' and the Luger's .3910 so all that works. The problem sits with the rim. The Makarov's is .3920" and the Luger .3940" which is greater than the Makarov's .3915" rim diameter.
It should be noted that the spec rim diameters that I listed are maximum allowable. The specs read .3920" - .010" and .3940 - .010" respectively. I pulled ten 9mm Luger cases out of this lot I'm working on and checked them and they all measured .3850" to .3860". My feeling is that if I have a 9mm Luger case that hangs up at the Makarov's .3915" max rim diameter, I'm going to chunk it. That is also the good thing about shorting the ram's lever. It reduces the force that can be applied. If you must struggle to get a case through, stop, knock it out with a punch, toss it, and continue.[/mod]
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by larryw »

Thank you Michael, much appreciated.
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by JohnnyEnfield »

Great information, with REAL details you will ONLY find HERE. I have read about bulge busting several places, but this post is very helpful. The pictures are great. Thank you for spending the time to write up the topic and take us a long for your process, WITH pictures. I appreciate it. Many others will appreciate it too. Thank you for posting this.
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by akuser47 »

Well done on this article. I have always debated the bulge buster for my glock 9mm cases they look sad.
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by Ranch Dog »

You're welcome guys. I'm going to edit it with one final detail.
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by GasGuzzler »

I don't have a gun that swells them. I have a Shield 9 and P95 plus a 1911 copy. I guess I haven't needed it yet and for some reason I thought it was a Glock "problem".
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by Ranch Dog »

GasGuzzler wrote:I don't have a gun that swells them. I have a Shield 9 and P95 plus a 1911 copy. I guess I haven't needed it yet and for some reason I thought it was a Glock "problem".
My experience is that they all swell a bit at the base of the cartridge, slowly and surely. The difference with the Glock is that bulge can extend from the base past the web. You should chunk those cases.

You really don't know what your chamber/case is doing until you send some spent brass through a Bulge Buster.

Added:
For sure, I'm not trying to create a worry witht this topic. A good way to tell if you are having an issue the BB will correct is when shooting reloads with brass that has had several cycles on it and you find that you are having problems with feed returning the slide to battery. Typically requiring a momentary bump at the back of the slide.

I don't shoot range pickup anymore, as all the brass generated on my range is has been shot by my pistols. If I had the opportunity to pick up brass, I would run all of it through a BB.
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by bayou »

I'm a firm believer in using the bulge buster. I use it for my 45 ACP brasses. I think of the bulge buster as a "uniforming" case die. In essence, the die is uniforming both the web area and the rim of the cases. All of the brasses are consistently uniform once passed through the bulge buster die. This certainly facilitates smooth loading into battery...

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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by horseman »

Are you running the 9mm brass through the bulge buster (9mm Mak) each time you reload it? Also do you run it through a resize die afterwards in the regular reloading process or before you use the bulge buster.
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Re: 9mm Luger Bulge Busting

Post by larryw »

Horseman beat me to it, I would like to know the
same thing.
BB each reload?
Sizing die before or after?
FCD at the end?

Also, couldn't find anything on Lee's site but since they
are now advising against using the Mak die set up
on 9 x 19 do they have anything specifically for
the Luger? I know, I know... Shut up Larry & go
Take a nap.......
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