Lee Loader

I gave up the search for my 358-200 RF and ordered a new replacement . In the same order I added a 452-200 RF . Both are 6C and of the new styles ...... Latest version ?
It looks like Titian reloading is opening boxes before they ship or as part of their shipping and packing .
Quick and dirty .
1 open , unpack and wash .
Dawn on a toothbrush and hot water .
2 Heat cycle
2x sprue plate up 1 down to 300-350° and let cool to room temperature an cycle again .
3 lube nominal points .
NOE sprue lube (rumored to be synthetic 2 stroke oil) is good for me . I just discolor the mould face of the sprue plate and about a half drop on the sprue hinge screw and mounting screw threads and just a touch but more than the discoloration on the inside on the sprue stop slot .
4 preheat while waiting for the pot after mounting on handles . I have a cast iron kettle plate on a cheap single hot plate .
5 pour .
The 358 took 8 pours to deliver good bullets and just 5 for the 452 . I hope this helps someone avoid the it won't cast bullets phase .

Good advice. From the other direction and as a novice caster I'd like some hints on what NOT to do......maybe pics of mistreated molds. I'm concerned I'm not taking care of mine.

Nice thanks for sharing

I haven't mangled a mould yet , through use anyway .
Most of the operator bugs in the old style "rib and rod" alignment have been eliminated from the industry .

The sprue plate lube will be the greatest asset to mould life . I keep a NOE lube bottle at hand and use dead tee shirts for drop pads and a sleeve corner to wipe the sprue plate face . I do a half drop of lube on the hinge pin 75 to 100 pours .
The synthetic 2 stroke oil doesn't burn like the bullet lube can .

Don't whack the mould blocks or sprue plates to dislodge bullets . That will wreck the handle grooves , handles , sprue hinge screws and maybe the plate quickly . Tap the handle hinge bolt or push the bullets out . When a mould is running in it's happy place the bullets will just fall free ........ Most of the time but I have iron moulds whose happy place is outside of the alloy happy place .

I've never had a mould that I had to smoke to get good function I did have 1 that worked better if it was flux smoked , but it wasn't​ essential to make it work .

I've always used a sprue mallet ,NOE sells one . I mostly use up push broom handles​ about a foot at a time . Move the plate flat with the stick/mallet/broom handle and it doesn't seem to do any harm . Some advocate a gloved hand , I can't do it . I haven't found a glove that stays cool enough that isn't bulky that I can feel what I'm doing .

To be completely honest I have maybe 6 Lee doubles that I use anymore , and that's only because those aren't available in a 6C and I like that particular bullet or it works in a particular gun . The 358-158 RNFP fits this along with the 312-155 SP . RB moulds also fall in with this .
I have five 6C now and it's pretty hard to wreck one of them short of deliberately .

I think in terms of wear out the old style moulds probably got mostly beat up on the steel pins that did the vertical alignment . Lube them and the vertical ribs . They will slip instead of rub . For many 1000s of pours I had a pour routine of dip , pour , ladle dump, ladle bump , flip , knock the sprue , dump , close , bottom mould bump , close sprue , dip , pour .

All of this applies to cheap Lee 1-2 C , 6C and the more expensive moulds .

RB did a great job of detailing his efforts with both of his posts. The only difference for me is that I go back and forth on sprue plate lube; an NRA Bullet Lube Stick Wax or BullShop oil (which is probably where NOE got the idea). The wax is liquid when I apply it. Touch the tip of a slotted screwdriver in the alloy, touch it to the stick, touch it to a pin or plate pivot point and the liquid wax transfers.

There is a razor blade on my casting bench to remove any lead splatters or smears from the underside of the sprue plate. This will happen with hot alloys that are opened too quick. The opening swing is a freebie; the alloy was too soft to damage the blocks. Closing the plate is what will score it. A heavy piece of leather is a great tool for cleaning the surface of the mold block of the same. An old that is free of oil will work.

I'm with RB; I don't cast with gloves on. I just them to work the alloy but I don't wear them while operating the mold. I'd rather "feel" the mold.

GasGuzzler wrote:Good advice. From the other direction and as a novice caster I'd like some hints on what NOT to do......maybe pics of mistreated molds. I'm concerned I'm not taking care of mine.

Great question! I clean them up with hot water and dawn, just the same as I prepared it. I use fine steel wool to remove any stains that occurred and the razor blade to remove any solidified lead. Once it is clean, I dry it with compressed air (the blower that I think you recommended), and then I spray it down with WD-40 which I blow off as well. A lot of folks scoff at the use of WD-40, but I use it for exactly what it was intended; water/moisture disbursement. Our aluminum molds won't corrode, but the will oxidize. The benefit of the WD-40 is that on the next prep cycle as soon as the mold hits the hot water and detergent, it is gone.

When I was selling molds, I didn't have many returns, but every mold that came back had been damaged by the operator. The details of the mold cavity had been ruined from oxidation by the mold being put away dirty and wet. I think moisture gets trapped between the alloy ash and the surface. The upper surface of mold blocks had been scored by crap on the underside surface of the sprue plate. All I could do with these was strip the hardware and throw them in the dumpster. By far the most common issue was a mold would come back coated in one of the various mold prep sprays. I think that stuff is absolutely the worst thing you can apply to a mold. I didn't see many returns, approximately 1 in 100, but most of those returns were from these agents. The last several years, I would not accept returns from molds that had been treated with these agents. The stuff voided my warranty.
I do have me some molds! I have another shelf with about half this amount. Altogether, I think it is a count of 63. A majority are my custom designs. Only three are not Lee; two NOEs and one Accurate, I designed all three of those.

Ranch Dog wrote:There is a razor blade on my casting bench to remove any lead splatters or smears from the underside of the sprue plate. This will happen with hot alloys that are opened too quick. The opening swing is a freebie; the alloy was too soft to damage the blocks. Closing the plate is what will score it. A heavy piece of leather is a great tool for cleaning the surface of the mold block of the same. An old that is free of oil will work.

THIS is what I needed to hear.

Ranch Dog wrote:I'm with RB; I don't cast with gloves on. I just them to work the alloy but I don't wear them while operating the mold. I'd rather "feel" the mold.

Same here. It's one of the accessories I never bought. I have a headless hammer handle I use to tap the bullets free as mentioned.

Ranch Dog wrote:I clean them up with hot water and dawn, just the same as I prepared it. I use fine steel wool to remove any stains that occurred and the razor blade to remove any solidified lead. Once it is clean, I dry it with compressed air (the blower that I think you recommended), and then I spray it down with WD-40 which I blow off as well. ........ Our aluminum molds won't corrode, but the will oxidize. The benefit of the WD-40 is that on the next prep cycle as soon as the mold hits the hot water and detergent, it is gone.

Never thought about cleaning them before putting them away.

I use a Rawhide mallet, bought many years ago from Tandy leather, to tap my mold hinge pins. Works great, and no wood splinters flying. I match flux my molds once in a while.

barracudadave67

I do smoke the cavities with a lighter, only just enough carbon to cause them to drop. You can reduce the diameter of the cast bullet with carbon, intentionally or accidentally.

RBHarter wrote: Some advocate a gloved hand , I can't do it . I haven't found a glove that stays cool enough that isn't bulky that I can feel what I'm doing .

RBHarter - It took me a while to find a nice soft leather gloves where I can 'feel' what I'm doing... They are very soft and do a good job heat insulating (not as good as welding gloves but just fine).
Those are called Firm Grip Grain Pigskin Gloves and are available at Home Depot for about $11
Pigskin gloves