Digital Infrared Thermometer

[jloader]

I have a good digital infrared thermometer. Picked it up on a-zon some time ago and it is quite accurate and has range up to 1022F.
Don't feel like spending about $50 on a bulky lead analog thermometer that would interfere with adding more lead and fluxing.

I tried using it to measure my molten lead in the pot but it registers about 400F because of the reflections from the shiny surface.
I know that this thermometer works well in the 700F range as I was getting good readings when smelting and measuring temps of copper bullet jackets floating in the pot.

Anyone has any suggestions in using infrared thermometer successfully? Or should I just float a small piece of copper on the surface? Hmm that gives me an idea...

[Ohio3Wheels]

Someone suggested floating a penny on the surface. I would think a not so brite would work best if that works.

Make smoke,

[farmerjim]

Many have tried (including me) to get an infrared thermometer to get correct readings of lead and none have succeeded . Not even with thousand dollar industrial ones.

[GasGuzzler]

Won't work on the surface. I have one for work.

The probe on my PID doesn't interfere because it's a bottom pour pot and I have it mounted out of the way.

I don't flux much at all in my bullet pot and my smelter is an entirely different set up without a thermometer.

[daboone]

I'm the last one anyone should listen to on this subject but I have a what if? Wouldn't a steel or iron bar extending from he bottom of the pot to several inches above the surface conduct the heat signature for a inferred infrared reading? It's just a thought so don't laugh.

[GasGuzzler]

Possibly after hours of the pot running. On a bottom pour that'd be harder than building a PID.

[Fyodor]

Someone suggested floating a penny on the surface. I would think a not so brite would work best if that works.

In principal that would work, but in reality it won't. Every movement of the lead will spill a bit over the top of the penny, or flip it around, and then again it is covered with molten lead.

Is the outside of your pot visible at some place?

[daboone]

Possibly after hours of the pot running. On a bottom pour that'd be harder than building a PID.

Heck I use a PID controller and love it. I'm just shooting from the hip here so please don't take offence. I think a 1/8in thick by 1/2in wide by whatever the length required to reach from the bottom of the pot to maybe 2in above the surface would not take any longer to heat up than getting the pot up to melting. Securing the bar to the pot would take a single screw maybe off setting the bar from the side of the pot or perhaps just a small c-clamp.

Would the 2in above the surface cause that much reduction of the temperature? I'm sure I'm missing something about infrared temperature measurements. I thought of this because I used to set molds up on the rim of my Lee pot while heating the alloy and they are ready to go by the time the I get the temp I want. (Now days I use a recycled Goodwill hot plate to do that job.)

[jloader]

The probe on my PID doesn't interfere

This is awkward... but what is PID? When I google it I get "Pelvic Inflammatory Disease" - I'm sure that's not what you guys are referring to...

[jloader]

Someone suggested floating a penny on the surface. I would think a not so brite would work best if that works.

Is the outside of your pot visible at some place?

It's a free standing bottom pour "Production Pot IV" pot so the outside of the pot is visible. Are you suggesting just measuring the temp of the outside of the pot or are you referring to the actual interior pot?

Come to think, I could try the temp on the inside wall of the pot...