Kroil and Bullet Molds

Ohio3Wheels · Post by **Ohio3Wheels** » 14 Jun 2016 15:10

There has been a lengthy discussion over on Cast Bullets about treating molds with Kroil. I've used kroil to get rust off and I use a lot of it cleaning guns, but the idea of not washing it off just wiping the mold and casting away goes against every thing I've ever been told about molds.

Some of the respondents say it works great other say it doesn't work at all. Some say it works but you got to do it right and treat the mold like you are seasoning a cast iron pan. The one who get it to work say it works on iron and aluminum no mention of brass that I recall and apparently works easier and/or better on iron.

Anybody tried this?

Make smoke, and it well

Okie44 · Post by **Okie44** » 14 Jun 2016 15:37

I have used Kroil on some used iron molds to clean the rust off. Always took a while to burn out of the cavities and gave me wrinkled bullets. Mold worked ok after it all burned out.
My opinion is that it don't work for me!

Ohio3Wheels · Post by **Ohio3Wheels** » 14 Jun 2016 15:52

Some think the kroil left behind in the pores is what happens to "season" the mold.

Still don't know still may try next casting session.

Make smoke,

Post by **RBHarter** » 14 Jun 2016 16:08

I've left it it only took about 5-6 pours to get it clear and get good bullets.

Post by **62chevy** » 14 Jun 2016 21:03

Some of the guys on CB also said you need a hot mold for the oil to work. I use anti-seize on my molds and in a long session use it 2 or 3 times. I need a break about then any ways.

Post by **GasGuzzler** » 15 Jun 2016 22:17

About when?

Post by **62chevy** » 16 Jun 2016 07:59

GasGuzzler wrote:About when?

??????

Ohio3Wheels · Post by **Ohio3Wheels** » 16 Jun 2016 08:36

62chevy wrote:Some of the guys on CB also said you need a hot mold for the oil to work. I use anti-seize on my molds and in a long session use it 2 or 3 times. I need a break about then any ways.

Do you have trouble with the anti-seize getting into the cavities? I've tried about everything including a toothpick and I still seem to get a little in the cavity closest to the hinge. It burns out pretty quick and for some reason I have more trouble with the Lee molds than I do with the assorted iron molds, Lyman for the most part and one 400 grain 40 from RCBS which has probably been my most trouble free mold over the years.

Make smoke,

Post by **62chevy** » 16 Jun 2016 20:28

Ohio3Wheels wrote:
62chevy wrote:Some of the guys on CB also said you need a hot mold for the oil to work. I use anti-seize on my molds and in a long session use it 2 or 3 times. I need a break about then any ways.
Do you have trouble with the anti-seize getting into the cavities? I've tried about everything including a toothpick and I still seem to get a little in the cavity closest to the hinge. It burns out pretty quick and for some reason I have more trouble with the Lee molds than I do with the assorted iron molds, Lyman for the most part and one 400 grain 40 from RCBS which has probably been my most trouble free mold over the years.

Make smoke,

No problem with migrating to any cavities but you do have to take the sprue plate off the mold and I use a Q-Tip to spreed the anti-seize around.

Ohio3Wheels · Post by **Ohio3Wheels** » 17 Jun 2016 09:35

I'll have to try that, cold mold I take it?

Make smoke,

Lee Loader

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