Seating Gas checks

[oscarflytyer]

Seating Gas Checks... ... w/ Lee sizing dies.

Not yet tried it, or GCs. Now have some GC bullet designs. Any tips/tricks to flatten out my learning curve seating GCs with Lee sizing dies? I typically use 45/45/10 lube. Thanx in advance.

[daboone]

It's very straight forward. Because it's a nose first sizing die you just played the GC shank over the check and depress the lever arm, kills two birds with one stone. I do wipe off any lube off the base first.

[Ranch Dog]

Yeah, absolutely nothing to it. I will even seated checks on non-lubed bullets, I just spray the pile of bullets with WD-40 before I run them through the sizer. An example would be when I'm trying to lube a bunch at a time and don't want to get behind as the bullets are being cast. Also, if the check are a bit loose and I feel the tumble lube process might actually knock the checks off.

Occasionally I will push bullets through the sizer base first. Everything that I shoot has a round, flat nose (RF) so deforming the nose is not an issue. The are two instances were I do this. The first are with my gas checked handgun bullets. I design all my bullets specifically for Hornady gas checks. The problem with that is that is that Hornady hasn't made pistol caliber checks for quite awhile so there is a bit of issue of extra copper needing to be moved up the gas check shank to fit the smaller diameter. As an example, my 41 Mag TLC411-265-RF bullet is a .411" design but Hornady only makes a .416 rifle gas check. With that bullet design, the gas check shank is long enough to accommodate the flow of excess copper up the shank as the bullet moves through the die base first. The other bullets I do this with is my 454 Casull TLC452-330-RF (.452") and my 45 Colt TLC454-290-RF (.454"). It works like a charm! I did have a problem with Lee when they started cutting my inventory of both the TLC411-265-RF and TLC454-290-RF. The approval drawings showed my dimensions on the shank but when whoever cut them decided they needed to correct it to the pistol check dimensions. They ended up eating a 100 of each plus the shipping.

The second situation were I pass them base first is if the check is not producing an absolutely flat base. As a puncher wears, this will start and it is time to order a new puncher. Yes, they will wear out against the barrel of the sizing die as the puncher is of softer steel. You will see a slight ridge forming on the base around the outside diameter of the check. I've seen it happen enough that I always handle a cast bullet by that edge formed at shank and base. It is an absolute accuracy killer. I've trapped these bullets in sand and they always have lost their gas check in flight. They are the "flyer" in a group.

This brings up a point. If you ever order a custom sizer, specify the puncher diameter! The puncher should be no more than .005" under bullet diameter, I prefer a little closer fit. I have had Lee try to slip a stock puncher on a special order that is significantly under diameter and you will have rimmed checks.

[oscarflytyer]

Knew I would get good succinct info. Thanx guys!

[Maximumbob54]

I will add that if you use the non Hornady/Lyman design checks that are just punched from the sheet metal that you will find they sometimes don't grab hold very well during sizing. I've read of several ways guys have overcome this issue but they were always more work that I've wanted to try. One idea was to just add a dot of crazy glue to each one. Another was to use a rifle factory crimp die to crimp the check in place. Personally, I just try to stick with the Hornady brand when I actually use a gas check.

[daboone]

You can also expand GC with the Lee Universal Case Expanding Die. It turns out the Lee Universal Flaring Die is a multi purpose tool. Use the large expander end to open a 30 cal GC to fit 8mm. I also got the NOE GC seater which is a very simple design but does a good job on some checks that do like the push thru sizers.

While on the subject I also have the FreeChex II & III. I really like never running out of GCs. By varying the thickness of the material you also get different size chexs.

[mr surveyor]

You can also expand GC with the Lee Universal Case Expanding Die. It turns out the Lee Universal Flaring Die is a multi purpose tool. Use the large expander end to open a 30 cal GC to fit 8mm. I also got the NOE GC seater which is a very simple design but does a good job on some checks that do like the push thru sizers.

While on the subject I also have the FreeChex II & III. I really like never running out of GCs. By varying the thickness of the material you also get different size chexs.

I'm curious about the various materials that can be used with the FreeChex. The last few years there have been several of the domestic swill beers canned in the 16 ounce screw top "bottle" cans, and it seems that these may use a thicker material than the standard aluminum cans, although I haven't measured the material thickness (don't have anything that would really suffice for that measurement). Have you tried those "bottle type" cans?

jd

[daboone]

I gave up on all the scrounging type materials. I must admit one of my favorite materials when I first started making GSs was a "No Trespassing/No Hunting" sign.

I get 1/2in wide strips of aluminum and copper from this site: http://www.coilandfoil.com/. It's just make making GC so simple and easy. A single coil will provide enough GCs for years of shooting.

[mr surveyor]

makes good sense to me.

I just seem to collect a good supply of aluminum containers over the course of a year and wondered if they could be repurposed more profitably than waiting and watching the metals prices for the best time to go to the salvage yard.

jd

[daboone]

I just seem to collect a good supply of aluminum containers over the course of a year and wondered if they could be repurposed more profitably than waiting and watching the metals prices for the best time to go to the salvage yard. jd

I'm sure they would work. I find .12 to .14 thickness to be perfect for my FreeChexs II & III. Getting the "beer can" or flashing cut into useable strips and the associated nick and scratches was the deciding factor in buying the coils.