62Chevy, here you go bud, the basic items one must have, delivered for under $50.00:
1. A PID - the Mypin TA4 is a good choice as it offers Farenheit readings vs celcius, plus with the number of folks using it, getting a American English instruction manual downloaded in .pdf form is easy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110862594914?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
2. There has been a big argument on which solid state relay (SSR) to buy, but the fact is, if you heatsink the SSR, a 25 Amp unit is sufficient for the needs of the Lee pot application:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310733303977?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
That said, the supplier I bought this from has run out temporarily, so here's an alternative for less money, but higher amp rating:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SSR-40A-DC-Cont ... 0733303977
3. Finally, a temperature probe, K type, rated for the temperature range you are in and long enough for the application. Since I will also use this in my smelting pot, I ordered a longer 15CM (7.5") version. I also ordered a spare, since thermocouples can die on you at the most inopportune times, just like a thermometer:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311498596816?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Total for the three items you must have: $43.02. This is pretty darn inexpensive.
Most everything else, you can scrounge if you need it. You don't absolutely need a switch or an indicator light. But if you want a slightly fancy box, add these extras:
Note: I paid for this one, but a computer power supply from a tower model will suffice just fine and if you have an old computer sitting around, it's free. For this one, I'll have to drill/cut mounting holes and drill cooling holes as well. A puter power supply is much easier to drill out.
1. A box to put everything in. The inch dimensions on the Mypin TA4 PID I'm using are 2" wide X 2" tall X 3.25" deep, so this box gives room to mount the controller on one side in the front, the relay/heat sink on the other side back with the switches/indicators:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201468189147?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
2. A power cord. Normally, you can scrounge from your junkpile, but I recently chunked out all my old electronics stuff saying I didn't need any of that any more (what was I thinking). This cord is the same type that comes on computers and most things nowadays:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321445265959?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
3. An input power socket with a fuse to protect things. I wanted one that could be mounted solid with cheap rivets or screw/nut. This one will work nicely:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231131988497?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
4. An output power socket to plug your pot into. Again, rivet mountable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310631949052?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
5. A couple indicator lights. One for when the unit has 110V power supplied and one for when the unit is putting power out to the casting pot:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311008802596?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
6. A switch with a "turned on" indicator light. Here's one and a spare:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230913392971?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Total for these extra items: $49.18. Again, most all of this stuff can be scrounged or gotten cheaper if you're patient. You will also need what is called "hook up" wire in about 14 or 16 AWG. If you have a computer power supply, the wires from there will work and come in nice multiple colors. Just cut to length, strip insulation and you're done. I have a ton of the wire in my garage from where I rebuilt a 1986 aluminum bass boat, so I'm good with wire.
The only reason I bought the extras is I like fancy and I wanted to save myself some time hunting the stuff down. But even at that, all of the parts total, bought online, run right at $100.00 and you get what you want. I wanted a nice box, so I bought nice stuff.
Tell ya what, I'll just take pictures as I go building this up and post them, so you can see.