How to find that load data or "Be A Handloader"

[daboone]

I like to steal stuff from other sites I belong to and repost them when I think it worthwhile. This one was written by a friend, Charley, over on HandLoadersBench. http://www.handloadersbench.com/ He granted his permission to repost this. I don't believe this subject could be stated any better.

"After reading the umpteenth question about finding a load for a bullet that isn't listed in a loading manual, I thought I might write down my thoughts on the matter, and the methods I use to find a safe, useful load.

Please note, I'm not slamming those who can't find data. One of the first bits of advice we get/got as beginning handloaders is to FOLLOW THE MANUAL. They have tested, safe loads, and needed advice on how not to blow yourself or your gun into small pieces.

If you have a cast bullet for a handgun that you can't find data for , you can safely use the data for the next heavier bullet listed. It likely won't be the best load, but will be a starting point you can work from. If you have a 150 grain cast bullet, and the manuals list data for 100, 125, 140, and 158 grain bullets, use the 158 grain start data, and you will be in the ball park.

You can also use jacketed START data for cast bullets, assuming the bullet profiles are similar, and bearing surface isn't radically different. Cast bullets typically will give somewhat less pressure than jacketed bullets.

The solid bullets of copper/bronze alloys are a different animal, and I wouldn't extrapolate data for them. Harder than lead alloy, different friction co-efficient. Also behave differently that jacketed bullets, because of the lack of a lead/lead alloy core.

OAL is important, but not the overwhelming issue some make it to be. Using START data, seat to the longest practical length you can (less than cylinder length for revolvers, less than magazine/chamber length with autopistols). If the round chambers properly, without needing an extra "bump" to close the slide, (evidence you might have a bullet contacting the rifling), you will be fine.

You must research YOUR gun, and YOUR load. Don't blindly follow any data, from manuals (they get corrections at times, wrong information sometimes makes it to the printers!), or internet information from various sources, including Handloadersbench. Filter what you find. If you are inexperienced, ALWAYS USE THE STARTING DATA, and work up from there.

One more thought...a Handloader is someone who can interpret load information, determine if it is suitable for his firearm, and work up a load that will work for his purposes...plinking, hunting, self defense, target work, etc. He makes it work, because he tailors it to his gun, and purposes.
A reloader is basically a handle pulling monkey, who cranks out a load using information he found somewhere. It is pretty much the same as shooting factory, except the machinery is different.
Be a handloader..."

[62chevy]

I did this with my .380 and the new Lee 95 gr bullet is found a jackets 95 gr bullet. Work just fine too.

[RBHarter]

Now if the new casters would just recognize that 380,9mm,38 and 357 are all the same diameter.........

[larryw]

DaBoone, can't be said any better.
I especially agree with the last paragraph.

[62chevy]

DaBoone, can't be said any better.
I especially agree with the last paragraph.

Had to go back and reread that last paragraph and yup I'm a handloader. Not because I cast but because I cast I need to find loads that work with my guns. I take published info and work around information from several sources.

[Steve]

I agree.... Last paragraph pretty well sums it up.