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I've decided to make a serious push and develop a load that works well with my LEE dippers.
Have used them in the past to get powder in the scale pan, but I really like these things and would love to use them as intended.
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Actually all powder measures work basically like dippers... in a box. No matter what people say, it is safe, accurate and repetable to load with LEE dippers, I've done my first thousend .38spl with the hand press and a dipper. These loads were even more consistent than the ones I now make on the pro1000 with AutoDisk measure.
It works well, have fun!
"I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it"
- Evelyn Beatrice Hall, often misattributed to Voltaire
I think I'm thinking, therefore I may possibly be.
I still say depending on the powders used some hold volume differently then others.
I've had some bad issues with high pressure loads through this. Until I got more technical on my powder process. I do agree if you follow manufacturer listing for the dippers you should be safe.
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I have been able to use my Lee dippers quite accurately/repeatably over the years. When I get on a roll, I can hold .1 grain of some powders repeatably. I just do every move/action exactly the same, When I started I used the recommended "push backwards and level with a credit card" method and have developed some methods for my own use, but consistency in use is the key. I also have "customized" some dippers by making the cavity either smaller for a lighter charge, or making the cavities larger for a heavier charge. A couple drops of epoxy in the bottom will make charges smaller and drilling/honing will make the charges heavier. Also shortening the depth of the cavity will make for lighter charges. These modifications are for only a few tenths of a grain of powder but I'm able to get closer to my targeted charge...
All just part of the fun fiddling with my reloading stuff (I do have a C-H powder measure, Lee PPM, a Bonanza powder measure, and a Hornady Pistol Powder measure, so it ain't outta necessity that I fiddle with the dippers).
I learned to reload under the watchful eye of my Dad some 50 years ago using dippers he made from 44/40 cases. Over the years I collected 7 different measures not counting 3 different sets of dippers.
The one thing I've learned is that some measures (including those dippers) work better (more consistent powder throws) with some powders than others. But if it gets down to consistent .1 accuracy then a trickler is necessary. The only time I worry about that kind of measurement is when I'm working up a load for new powder and or bullet combination.
One thing I don't like about the Lee dippers when compared to the soldered wire handle on a brass case is the static electric powder cling. I've tried rubbing Bounce dryer sheets on them but it doesn't seem to eliminate the problem.
An ignorant person is one who doesn't know what you have just found out.
When setting a job up for myself it must be Idiot Proof as well, as I am a bigger idiot than most people I know, and I prove it to myself everyday.
daboone wrote:One thing I don't like about the Lee dippers when compared to the soldered wire handle on a brass case is the static electric powder cling. I've tried rubbing Bounce dryer sheets on them but it doesn't seem to eliminate the problem.
I tried to get rid of the static of my AutoDisk measures using dryer sheets, it didn't work, but now my whole flat smells like these things. Very agressive smell.
What did work was to buy a can of powdered graphite, and feed that through the measure. Maybe that also works with the dippers? The one dipper I used a lot for my .38spl is much less static than the nearly new one for my .45ACP.
And the flashes at injection mold boundaries of course.
"I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it"
- Evelyn Beatrice Hall, often misattributed to Voltaire
I think I'm thinking, therefore I may possibly be.
I haven't even thought about it for my powder handling tools (been forcing myself to wipe with dryer sheets too), but I remember a tip from 20 years ago for reducing static charged in plastic stuff .... wash/wipe the surface with clean dishwater and a good dose of dishwashing soap, but don't rinse off the soap film.... just let it dry.
I'll have to remember to try that on my "powder bowl" next session.
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mr surveyor wrote:I haven't even thought about it for my powder handling tools (been forcing myself to wipe with dryer sheets too), but I remember a tip from 20 years ago for reducing static charged in plastic stuff .... wash/wipe the surface with clean dishwater and a good dose of dishwashing soap, but don't rinse off the soap film.... just let it dry.
This is what I've done with them back when I purchased them. This I run the individual dipper through the powder until it passes through clean before I start to use it.
mr surveyor wrote: .... wash/wipe the surface with clean dishwater and a good dose of dishwashing soap, but don't rinse off the soap film.... just let it dry.
Forgot about the dish soap thing long ago, Thanks Surveyor.
i make my own dippers if i cant get a stock one that works
i have them from 22 cases all the way to 38spl case for black powder work
solder a wire on the bottom and file the top to match your needs