Paper Patching
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Paper Patching
Does anyone here paper,patch?
Am looking for someone to corespond with who does it.
Am trying to learn but have questions.
beekeeper
Am looking for someone to corespond with who does it.
Am trying to learn but have questions.
beekeeper
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Re: Paper Patching
Watched a few Youtube videos on it and read some over at cast boolits but haven't took the step so I,d be interested too.
Je suis Charlie
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Re: Paper Patching
Howdy Beekeeper
I have done some with 43 Spanish as the .439 was no good in my .446 rifle. I am no expert and probably muddled my way through. But it worked OK far better than that .439 ever could. I used 40-1 bullets.
But stage one is to get the right thickness calibrated. I used typewriter paper that with two wraps made me a .444 after I ran it through a sizer I opened. It was good enough to do 4 inches at 100 with 70 grains 2F.
Once I had the right paper shape a cut guide is made to that exact shape so you can cut the papers fast.
Get it wet, roll it on the bullet and twist the tail. I left my paper to be longer about 1/4 inch past the base. I did roll pressing down on a smooth steel shin 1/4" thick. Thick glass works good. After I had 5 or so rolled then I placed another flat steel on top and rolled them back and forth a bit to get them uniform and flat.
Set aside and let dry. Then sniped the tails close to base. Smeared some lube on them then sized them as they ended up a bit fat.
This is very basic.. happy to add any info you desire. But Castbolits has a super info base on how to do it far better. I bought a .446 Mauser mold that my Spanish rifle shoots nicely so I dropped being a paper roller.
Mike in Peru
I have done some with 43 Spanish as the .439 was no good in my .446 rifle. I am no expert and probably muddled my way through. But it worked OK far better than that .439 ever could. I used 40-1 bullets.
But stage one is to get the right thickness calibrated. I used typewriter paper that with two wraps made me a .444 after I ran it through a sizer I opened. It was good enough to do 4 inches at 100 with 70 grains 2F.
Once I had the right paper shape a cut guide is made to that exact shape so you can cut the papers fast.
Get it wet, roll it on the bullet and twist the tail. I left my paper to be longer about 1/4 inch past the base. I did roll pressing down on a smooth steel shin 1/4" thick. Thick glass works good. After I had 5 or so rolled then I placed another flat steel on top and rolled them back and forth a bit to get them uniform and flat.
Set aside and let dry. Then sniped the tails close to base. Smeared some lube on them then sized them as they ended up a bit fat.
This is very basic.. happy to add any info you desire. But Castbolits has a super info base on how to do it far better. I bought a .446 Mauser mold that my Spanish rifle shoots nicely so I dropped being a paper roller.
Mike in Peru
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Re: Paper Patching
I wrotr a fancy post but my fone hicupped.
this should get you started. I patch for 7mm,30cals.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthr ... rks-for-me
Be patient w/it 1 rifle took 200 rounds before it clicked.
this should get you started. I patch for 7mm,30cals.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthr ... rks-for-me
Be patient w/it 1 rifle took 200 rounds before it clicked.
Just a Red neck,White boy, Blue blood American.....
Re: Paper Patching
I am trying to get an old 91/30 mosin to work.
It came to me with out a stock so I made it into a sporter and cut 6 inches off of the barrel.
The bore is bad but is coming a little cleaner with each shooting.
Have been trying the 314299 cast bullet and by patching to the ogive I am unable to chamber the rounds.
I size to .309 before patching and am wondering if I need to go even smaller
I have not slugged the bore since I built it and honestly did not write down the readings so have to do it again.
Every book you read gives diferent directions and data so I sometimes get lost an which to actually use.
Patch to bore?
Patch to groove?
beekeeper
It came to me with out a stock so I made it into a sporter and cut 6 inches off of the barrel.
The bore is bad but is coming a little cleaner with each shooting.
Have been trying the 314299 cast bullet and by patching to the ogive I am unable to chamber the rounds.
I size to .309 before patching and am wondering if I need to go even smaller
I have not slugged the bore since I built it and honestly did not write down the readings so have to do it again.
Every book you read gives diferent directions and data so I sometimes get lost an which to actually use.
Patch to bore?
Patch to groove?
beekeeper
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Re: Paper Patching
Good question and I don't know the answer to it either. One guy on Youtube sized his lead boolits to .308 and patched them to .311 after sizing and that was for a .308 Win. Try both and see which one works better.
Je suis Charlie
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Re: Paper Patching
The nominal guide numbers are something like this. .001 over land dia for the core and .001 over groove IF that is even close to filling the throat. In a perfect set up in a 06', you have a 300x 308 bore/groove, 3095 throat/leadeand the neck id is 311. Size your core 301 , 2 wraps of about 16# ( I use green bar chain printer paper),run it through a 309-310 push through sizer to ''iron the patch on'' finger seat in a case full of 4831............ enter I wrap wet/dry,patch lube,powder selection,load data conflicts and 100 others.
I was just reading about a 91/30 that slugged 300/314,w/o any visable chamber to throat step just a straight taper from the neck od to 300. Meanwhile I've loaded for an sks at 305/316, that would accept a 323 in the fired case slip fit. Land ,groove and neck id's are 1st here. Then we can work on paper. The sks found joy dry wrapped on a 309 sized 3165 w/no tail w/heavies and 309 core dry wrapped unsized for 130-155.
I was just reading about a 91/30 that slugged 300/314,w/o any visable chamber to throat step just a straight taper from the neck od to 300. Meanwhile I've loaded for an sks at 305/316, that would accept a 323 in the fired case slip fit. Land ,groove and neck id's are 1st here. Then we can work on paper. The sks found joy dry wrapped on a 309 sized 3165 w/no tail w/heavies and 309 core dry wrapped unsized for 130-155.
Just a Red neck,White boy, Blue blood American.....
Re: Paper Patching
OK I gave in and slugged the bore again.
Actually wrote it down this time. ( new one for me)
.300 lan
.314 groove
So now to get the 314299 bullet to work do I need to patch to the lan size?
If so I am in for a long time sizing bullets down to .294 so I can patch them.
beekeeper
Actually wrote it down this time. ( new one for me)
.300 lan
.314 groove
So now to get the 314299 bullet to work do I need to patch to the lan size?
If so I am in for a long time sizing bullets down to .294 so I can patch them.
beekeeper
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Re: Paper Patching
Your core should be (prefect world) 301 patched up to 315 . I think whatever 30 cal sizer you have ,308,309 will get you started on the cores . I would mic your paper and multiply by 4.(2 wraps = 2 layers on each side.).and choose the paper that comes out under 316 . IG; 308+ (.015x4) = .314 this should be close for 16# paper,20# will be closer to 318 but will compress (plain Jane printer paper).
Since pics elude me here ,my patches look a little like/=/. Mine would cut 3/4x2 '' w/45degree ends . After much study the actual angle isn't really important as long as it is the same on both ends.
Since pics elude me here ,my patches look a little like/=/. Mine would cut 3/4x2 '' w/45degree ends . After much study the actual angle isn't really important as long as it is the same on both ends.
Just a Red neck,White boy, Blue blood American.....