sticky extraction solutions

[9x80Drilling]

I've been experiencing difficult extraction with all sorts of loads in my 9x80R drilling. I'm seeking solutions.
Here's some background.
The cartridge is considered a straight case, no bottleneck.
The chamber measures 80 mm in length, somewhat more than 3". There is a gradual taper from the head to a point about 1.25" from the mouth of the case, or end of chamber. That last 1.25" is cylindrical. It seems to me those long parallel surfaces grip the case too much.
Fired brass measures .001" to .002" larger out within 3/8" of the mouth than it does back towards the head of the case.
I most often simply neck size the end of the case with a modified Lee collet die. Occasionally I need to partially size the body of the case to ease chambering a live round.
This is Bertram 9.3x82R basic brass that I've shortened and sized. All the cases in my possession have been loaded and fired upwards of 10 cycles.
The rifle's chamber does not appear to be flared towards the end. It seems to me that the last 3/8" of the cases just may be work hardened to the point that they don't spring back enough after firing to release from the chamber.
Historically I did not experience this extraction difficulty. I've moderately then drastically reduced powder charges in various loads with no real difference. I can break open the drilling just fine. I just cannot pull the case out farther than what the extractor lifts it.
Any ideas what may be going on here?
I'm thinking I need to anneal this old brass.
Would anyone point me towards a simple annealing method I could try first before spending big bucks on an annealer? In 60+ years of reloading, I've never felt the need to anneal a case. Maybe that's about to change, right?

[horseman]

I know nothing about a cartridge like that other than 45-70 and 45-90. Anything alike ?? Annealing, ah, a can of worms of a subject. In certain areas of reloading lore, from many places, that subject can bring fire and brimstone amongst them. Sorta like "crimping". What I do, and I am no "expert" on the subject by any means, more of the "I'm an Idiot, don't do what I do" type of thing. A regular type torch, a battery powered screwdriver, and a deep well socket that fairly fits the head of the case. Hold the area to be annealed just outside the blue flame slowly turning it for 4 Mississippi's, maybe 5 as some brass is thicker than others, watching the color change. I look for a grayish blue, when I see that starting I drop the case on a damp towel. I would also resize the whole case and not just the "neck" area, just to see if that ends the issue you're having. But as I said, I'm an idiot, so give er' a go and see what happens if you dare. May the annealing Gods shine their light on you. No pun intended...

I will add that the first time I tried annealing, 30'06, I went with the "set the cases in a pan of water about halfway up the case. Then in a darkened room heat the shoulder neck area with a torch until you start to see cherry red then knock them over in the pan of water." I only ruined about 10 cases with that method ...to hot. ( I ) have not had any issues with the method I now use. I am assuming I'm actually annealing at this point.

[9x80Drilling]

Thanks horseman, for your insight.
I have tried full length sizing without any benefit.
I was intending to try the slowly turning drill method.
These cases are superficially like .45-70 and other straight wall rifle cases. The brass is considerably thinner at the case mouth, though. I'll watch for a color change after fewer Mississippi's.
Actually I'm remembering some similar brass in my collection that measures 72 and 75 mm. I'll experiment with it first. No loss if I destroy some of it.
And, I do have a bottle of Tempilaq 750 on order.

[RBHarter]

I only have about 30 yr and 25ish with metallic cartridge. A yr or so that I harassed 303 into 410 and about 8 yr now with the 45-70 . I had some fail to seal issues with 45 Colts . Many other "war story" examples .

I agree with Horseman's ideas and instructions.

One more bug I think I'd swat would be to make sure you don't have a ring or dimple in the chamber . In the course of getting there scoure the chamber with a couple of different solvents from your usual go to choice . You could just have carbon building and a ring like using 38s in a 357 chamber then after 4-500 rounds shooting 357 . You can use a flaired case as a scraper if you have a spare in trimmed.

I've had long cases do a similar thing also . That trip was the result of following the letter of known information from manuals passed by editors that had never seen a 30 or 32 Rem and didn't mention that case being.02 shorter than the 30-30 or 32 WS . A mouth that only opens as far as the ball seat behind the throat will stick hard and fail to chamber in a slide action . They can be chambered in a break or bolt action .