243 hard to chamber

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Macd
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by Macd »

Horseman wrote:
cj8281 wrote:These are empty, sized cases. The ones with bullets were factory loaded ammo.

My first inclination then would be the shoulder isn't being set back enough.
I believe the tight chambering also occurs with factory rounds. They should chamber easily.

"I pulled out a box of factory new, Winchester Super X 100 grain, they chambered tight."

Having eliminated all the probable then the improbable must be considered.
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by cj8281 »

I think you are correct. I changed out the dies and shell holder and then changed out the press. I set up my single stage and then reset the dies. Lubed one of the hard cases and then resized it, wiped it down and retried it. Perfect fit. I went through and resized all of the rest. Cleaned up the two that I had smoked and resized them as well. The one that originally would not close now closes. It still takes a bit of pressure to close but nothing like it was before. I don't fear shooting it now. I am thinking that maybe I did not have the dies set right in the Turret, maybe there was enough of everything moving to not allow it to fully seat. I haven't measured the two different shell holders to see if there is any appreciable difference between them.
As far as the factory ammo, I guess that is just how it is.
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by Macd »

Glad you got it straightened out. I have shot a lot of Winchester ammo without any issues. I have a box of 30-06 in the cupboard. Hopefully their quality control hasn't fallen off.
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by horseman »

cj8281 wrote:I think you are correct. I changed out the dies and shell holder and then changed out the press. I set up my single stage and then reset the dies. Lubed one of the hard cases and then resized it, wiped it down and retried it. Perfect fit. I went through and resized all of the rest. Cleaned up the two that I had smoked and resized them as well. The one that originally would not close now closes. It still takes a bit of pressure to close but nothing like it was before. I don't fear shooting it now. I am thinking that maybe I did not have the dies set right in the Turret, maybe there was enough of everything moving to not allow it to fully seat. I haven't measured the two different shell holders to see if there is any appreciable difference between them.
As far as the factory ammo, I guess that is just how it is.

There's a couple good u-tube videos on how to adjust a size die to get a good chamber fit using just the bolt. Only issue is you need to remove the firing pin from the bolt to do it properly, not a big thing for most rifles but some may be a bit of a buggar. However this does nothing to help adjust for bullet seating depth. After doing it that way a couple times I decided to buy the Hornady case comparator set. Along with the bullet comparator set it not only allows you to just "bump" the shoulder back to fit your chamber but also will allow you to adjust the seating depth of the bullets to the lands. Something else to play around with in the world of reloading rifle. IIRC the whole setup is around 50 bucks, well worth it in my opinion. It (they) will eliminate most all sizing and bullet seating issues. Beware though, there will be math involved..... :D
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by cj8281 »

For bullet seating, I went with the Jam Method. I have a case that has a split neck. Fit a bullet in it and then chambered it. Carefully removed the case and measured the length. Now since the bullet was jammed into the riflings I subtract .025 to .030" and start there. I also see how close this is to the recommended seating depth and double check with a bullet that has been sharpied.
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by Macd »

I use both methods. The comparator is great but it doesn't actually provide an exact measure to the point that the bullet ogive touches the lands. It gives a measurement to where the comparator collar stops against the bullet ogive. It still works as you are measuring on a bullet that has contacted the lands when pushed forward through the modified case. Subtracting from that measurement gives you your desired jump. It is quick and easy as long as you have a modified case for the calibre being loaded.
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by horseman »

Macd wrote:I use both methods. The comparator is great but it doesn't actually provide an exact measure to the point that the bullet ogive touches the lands. It gives a measurement to where the comparator collar stops against the bullet ogive. It still works as you are measuring on a bullet that has contacted the lands when pushed forward through the modified case. Subtracting from that measurement gives you your desired jump. It is quick and easy as long as you have a modified case for the calibre being loaded.

Not sure I'm following what you're saying here. The Hornady case comparator (they call it a head space gauge, but it's not) will give you an exact "distance" to where the bullet ogive touches the lands. Granted these numbers have nothing to do with SAMMI numbers as far as head space, but it will give you accurate numbers to load by. One thing you must take into consideration when making these "measurements" is the difference in the Hornady modified case and the actual case you will be loading. If you have fire formed brass from the rifle you're loading for, the best scenario is making your own "modified" case. Cuts down on the math... :lol:

Edit: I reread your response again and I see we are actually saying the same thing.... ;)
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by Macd »

I have made a few modified cases but because I have not been able to secure a tap that duplicates the threads on the length gauge they are awkward to use
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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by Ohio3Wheels »

I have the correct tap. I ordered it from a local tool supply place, seems like it took a month to get it. I'll dig it out and get the numbers for you if you need them. I'm pretty sure McMaster Carr has them if they'll ship your way.

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Re: 243 hard to chamber

Post by horseman »

Macd wrote:I have made a few modified cases but because I have not been able to secure a tap that duplicates the threads on the length gauge they are awkward to use




Tap needed is a 5/16th x 36tpi. Amazon has them. Drill bit size (preferred) is letter gauge L (.290) but I have read where some have used a 7.3mm (.286) or a 9/32. (not sure the dia. size of this one) The only advantage of making your own is a fire formed case will fit your chamber whereas the Hornady doesn't. Simple math to adjust for the difference. Of course if Hornady doesn't make a case for a rifle you're shooting that is your only option with using that tool. Of course you will be saving about 5 bucks (Hornady case cost) and the tap die will cost you twice that, but if you're doing a bunch then it's a good idea. Actually it's a good idea anyway...just because you can... +corn
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