Anyone ever reload any GECO 9mm brass?

[jarhead127]

Haven't reloaded in years + when I did it was mostly rifle + on a single stage press.

Now, I reloading for my (3) 9mms with a Lee Classic hand loader. Only factory ammo I could find to re-use the brass was GECO 9mm 115gr TMJ. Never even heard of the stuff let alone shot it, but I guess it's German. My Security 9 didn't like it from the get go. Had problems jamming on the feedramp. P85 + EC9S ate em up cuz they have a much wider feedramp at the bottom.

Now, gotta beat the tar outta some of these to get them into the sizing die. Naturally, same problem knockin them outta the die to prime. I'm lubin the cases + hittin em with a 12oz mallet, just doesn't seem right to have to beat the tar outta some + tap the others once.

Usually when something this simple is this difficult, it's cuz yer doin somethin wrong. Any suggestions or experience with this brass?

[RBHarter]

I think I passed it and A-meric but I had a lot of Win about 3-1 over FC and RP combined .

[Ranch Dog]

Morning jarhead. GECO is a Swiss Company, with the brass used in the RWS and Rottweil ammunition brands and is offered as a component for reloaders. I did some digging and found where a reloader measured the flash hole, and it is about 20% under the SAAMI spec, but I'm not sure where it sits with the CIP standard. That alone, pounding the decapper through an undersized hole would make it tough to size and then remove the case from the die. The resolve would be to ream the flash hole, and many reloaders do that work. I do it with every case, rifle and pistol, but with it that much under it would become a job, leading me to discard them.

I've chunked a lot of S&B brass; it might have the same issue. On my Lyman Case Prep Center, it takes a lot of cutting to deburr the flash hole and bevel the primer pocket. There is no sense in working that hard, so toss that brass. Not all European offerings seem to have the issue, PPU (Privi Partizan) has become my number one choice. Back to the Lyman tool where the evidence speaks for itself. Less brass is left on the tool head after the primer pocket work than any other brass I work with. I've been at this a long time and been able to narrow my inventory down to PPU, Win, and Rem. Those are the most consistent without going to the expensive stuff.