Lee Loader

Jeff H wrote: Over-application of any of these methods won't make it better, so you might as well let the mould cool and do some sprue-plate traige.

You just ... have to clean it off in addition to cleaning up metal surfaces with files and abrasive papers.

Here is where we need to take a discussion, even if in a new topic.

I'm sure there's more than one ham-fisted casting newbie out there that has scored a mold...

Tell you what, GG, I've bought numerous moulds from Michael over several years, three of which were "used."

On one occasion, two identical moulds, one new, one used. It took me until I removed the sprue plates for the initial cleaning before I could tell which of the two were used. I pay attention when Michael talks about moulds, because I've used these new-fangled aluminum LEE moulds for over thirty years and it's not until I've marked up the top of each one until I figured out what that mould liked or needed.

Michael has some valid voodoo he's applying to his and I haven't a single aluminum mould that doesn't have at least one arc-shaped indelible mark on the top of it.

More specifically I was asking how to fix one up after it's been treated rough.

Well...I went to the garage today to try on my own since no one jumped up immediately to instruct. I think I did OK. I realized I have more molds than I thought. They're mostly detailed out and ready to use the next time other than the Permatex anti-seize since I have a bottle at work I've had for likely 30 years I'm not going to buy another on a whim (next week I'll be at the same job with the fifth owner for 18 years). One or two I poured and left shut so they got no love. I also used the opportunity to reorganize how they're stored.

I just break the edges that drag and the sprue hole . I have a dedicated Or. oil stone just for this and other flat uses . I just scrape the edge of the sprue hole with a chamfer tool an call it done .

Synthetic 2 cycle oil works for me. apply sparingly with a q tip. I use it for hinge, sprue and locating pins on the molds.

GasGuzzler wrote:More specifically I was asking how to fix one up after it's been treated rough.

GG this would make an interesting topic. I have had to do some "Tuning", repairs and mods on a few dies and am always looking for suggestions, tips and techniques others have found useful. Everything from general cleanup and preparation to polishing, lapping, squaring blocks, fixing sprue plates, loose pins and screws, cleaning contaminated cavities and clearing vent lines is of interest. We already have covered lubrication.

Start a new topic, show us your worst die and see what is submitted by the peanut gallery lol.

I fixed them all already my way. We'll see the way the work next time I get them out. Still too hot here.

The worst one had arcs worn across the top from lead being stuck to the bottom of a poorly adjusted sprue plate. I removed the handles and used ViseGrips to hold the blocks closed. I flat filed the top as much as I could stand to square up the top.

I cleaned, flattened, and polished (in some cases) the underside of the sprue plates.

I used a razor blade to clean all lead deposits from between the blocks.

One mold needed a pin profiled and driven out slightly because it was causing the mold to hang up on opening.

Cleaned them all with acetone then alcohol before smoking them with a wooden match.

I have started using my anti seize lube from my black powder kit, it comes in a lipstick type tube (CVA??). Just a toothpick amount and it melts right into the joint. Don't use much or it will get into everything just like your beeswax did. I just use a rag soaked with alcohol to clean off any "over flow" and keep on casting.

orerancher wrote:Bull Shop Sprue Lube and a Q-Tip...
Has always worked well for Me...Never seen a Reason to try anything Else...

What I use also. bought a couple small bottles several years ago and still have one and a half left. Tried most of the things mentioned here and for me this stuff works the best. I also see mentioned above "sooting" the mold. I did that for a long time also for "sticky" molds, a better method although it takes a little work is to cast a few bullets from that mold, run a screw into the base of the bullet, apply a small amount of lapping compound to the bullet and slowly spin them in each cavity. That will really help the "castability" of a mold.