Full length sizing....is it needed?

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nagantino
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Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by nagantino »

It’s a funny question I know. Here’s the situation: I broke a recapping pin on the first stage of my Pro 1000. Searching in my box of spares I found a die with pin intact. I’ve gathered lots from guys who have given me their old kit. I fitted the die, pulled the lever to make a round, powder, bullet etc. I moved to my Single stage and finished the round with my FCD. Good. I dropped it into the Competition Gauge and it Thunked in perfectly. It was then I noticed that the decapping/ sizing die was not touching the plate. Not near it even. I’ve made 10 or so rounds and they all fit the Competition Gauge perfectly.

My question is : Do I need to bring the first die down to almost touch the plate as recommended?
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by farmerjim »

If it was shot in your gun, and will be shot in the same gun again, No.
If it is from a different gun, or will be shot in a semi auto, then I would full length resize.
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by RBHarter »

Eventually you'll have to fully size them . What you are doing is referred to as short , partial , or neck sizing with a full length die . It saves stress on the brass and can make it last longer . If its for one gun it's a great system . If it is for multiple guns not as good a plan . The cycle count to full length sizing will be dependent on brass alloy , annealing , powder selection and load intensity . A cast bullet load at 15,000 psi might go 15-20 cycles in a 30-30 but a full power 308 might be hard to close the bolt on the 4 cycle .
On some cartridges in some actions like 303 in the Enfields it may be necessary to do this just to keep the shoulder close to the chamber shoulder . It's also handy in rifles with long headspace , allowing in extreme cases a wildcat on standard dies .
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by nagantino »

I’m reloading 9mm for CZ Shadow and the brass is range pick up. I understand partial sizing for rifle rounds but did not expect the well fitting rounds for 9mm Luger in the competition gauge. Is the FCD doing the job efficiently without having to worry about the correct die/shellplate setting?
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by larryw »

Die adjustment is always an issue if the adjustment is not right???
Straight wall handgun rounds, fully size, load, shoot, repeat.
Yes, we know 9mm is a tapered case but, it is still straight walled!!
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by Ohio3Wheels »

Since they pass the "plunk" test in your competition gauge I'd say that you're doing fine. I have gauges for a lot of what I reload and when making changes I always let them be the final arbiter and it hasn't let me down yet.

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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by RBHarter »

I hate writing tooling tolerance .
You're working with 3 "precision" ground reamers and laps .........
The most important thing is not that it fits a gauge that maybe something larger that the sizer to theoretically just a .0005 over minimum chamber . It is that it fits your chamber(s) . I've had the gun that was so full figured cases properly sized actually made rattled noise in the chamber . Don't even ask about the 7.62 -39 that was closer to 8×39 . Then there's the pump gun with the match chamber .

Just make sure 10-20% fit your chamber for range and training ammo . Typically that will do . I will admit to recently having to "bulge bust" some 45 ACP from pre-owned brass .
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by nagantino »

So....I have lowered the sizing die to the recommended spec. It was an interesting find and is another recommendation for the FCD.
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by Ranch Dog »

It might also be purpose-driven in that you are using range pickup brass. Full-length size it the first time and then run it until it needs it. In that a lot of pistol ammo is run in quantities, it would suck if you started experiencing failures to chamber with the given lot.

Also, remember that the 9mm Luger is not a straight-walled case but a tapered case. 2°, about like the 30 Carbine, which lends to the reliability of the cartridge in a dog fight. Take away they taper from the lack of sizing and you take away positive chambering. This can be lost with a cast bullet, but was why I designed my cast bullet with a tapered body. I didn't want to lose the case's taper. A 9mm Luger with a straight-walled cast bullet is just a bigger 380 Auto.

I full-length size my 25, 32, 380, and 45 Autos along with the 9mm Luger and Makarovs as everything is loaded for self defense, even if it is used on the range. I want to ensure positive feed. Pistol brass is very cheap.
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Re: Full length sizing....is it needed?

Post by timv »

broken pin that's why I choose to deprime with a universal die separate then I can clean and tumble, but that's just me, I do this for all cartridge's I load
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