Primer Pocket Tools?

[daboone]

What do you use to uniform and or clean your primer pockets? (I'm not asking about crimped brass.) What and why makes it your favorite? This is one aspect of case prep that require using my fingers and after awhile it works my arthritic fingers.

I understand many think doing this is a waste of time but I don't. The reason I do this is because I had a slam fire in a SKS many years ago. Now I feel that an ounce of prevention is worth the effort and I load for my kids and grand kids. It make me feel confident and better safe than sorry. For me it is just worth it.

I'm on a roll case prepping several thousands of cases, 30/06, 7.62x39 and 54R, 7.55x55, 6.5x50 and 52, and M1 Carbine. I'm even doing some pistol straight walled brass that was range pick up. So Please give me your thoughts, methods, and tools used.

[Ranch Dog]

I actually clean every primer pocket I shoot; 25 Auto to 45-70 Govt. I prefer to use the K&M Primer Pocket Uniformers chucked up in a battery powered drill. I have found the Lyman Large & Small Primer Pocket Uniformer satisfactory for cleaning all but Large Rifle primers. They don't have the cutting ability for true pocket uniforming. As they are only a Large & Small set, they don't cover the depth of Large Rifle pocket and won't completely clean it. It needs to be a three tool set:

• Small Pistol & Rifle
• Large Pistol
• Large Rifle

The depth for primer pockets are:

• Large Rifle - .131"
• Large Pistol, Small Pistol & Rifle - .122"

I also uniform the flash hole the first time I load any brass. It is crazy how rough the are but remember they are being punched through. I use the K&M Flash Hole Uniformer for that task.

I'm been using the K&M tools for a very long time, from back when you had to Ken or his wife to order. He made me a complete set of case neck reamers for my leverguns. I'm glad to see the K&M line of tools continued. Just looked, still have all of the letters he wrote me.

[Ohio3Wheels]

I use a set of Sinclair uniformers. Like them a lot and they kept an edge through a lot of brass.

Make smoke,

[daboone]

The K&Ms look very nice. I wish they made them with 8/32 threaded adapter.

I've been using Sinclair primer pocket tools. By friction fitting (with some tape) into a 9mmL case that was drilled/tapped for a 8/32 screw so that it can be used on the case prep center.



This picture shows both the large and small uniformers as adapted for use on the case prep center.

The problem with this method is each case has to be hand held individually which is hard on the fingertips after a hundred or more. I was hoping someone might have a better method of holding, securing or doing primer pockets for tired old aging rotten worn out ugly fingers.

[Ohio3Wheels]

When I do a lot with power I wear mechanic''s black nitrile glove from Home Depot. Helps preserve hide but doesn't do anything for sore thumb joints.

Make smoke,

[Fyodor]

I don't use additional primer pocket cleaning tools, but I deprime before wet tumbling the cases. Most pockets are free from residue after as less as 45 minutes in the tumbler.

[Ranch Dog]

It took me a day or two to remember a picture but I have similar issues with my fingers & hands and have had so for years. I use small rectangle or square pieces of this plastic grid or web shelf liner. Kind of run across this by accident and it works better than anything I have ever tried. Maybe using this 15 years now. It will grip anything and not let go. This is a piece that I use for large rifle cases, a rectangle. Just grabbed it quick for the picture so you would get the idea. It is as quick as you can pick something up.



I think I bought it at Wal-Mart to line my tool box shelves. Dirty cheap and will literally last forever. PM me if you can't find it and I will send you some.

[daboone]

With my big old clunky hands I tear open at least one nitrile glove for every one I put on. But I do use them frequently for many jobs in my sanctuary.

I also do the SS pin wet tumble but not every time. The old corncob buzz bucket still get more use because it's less of a hassle. Besides, just cleaning, there is another reason I do primer pocket uniforming. I've found with my M1 Garand, M1 Carbine, SKS (all semi autos) after each firing the brass has reconfigured the pocket a miniscule amount. Actually this is true of all my rifles. I know this because the uniformer will still do a fine amount of cutting. I need to know that the primer are evenly and completely seated each and every time. I'm not saying primers won't seat if not uniformed just not as perfectly as I'd like. I'm OCD?

Now that rubber mat idea is what I'm looking for. I'm off the the kitchen with scissors. :twisted:

[horseman]

I understand the "old hands" hanging onto the small pieces of brass part for sure. I do the pockets (both crimp removal and uniforming) on a powered unit as well. To eliminate the removal of skin from the fingers after a few dozens cases, I use the che, err, inexpensive Hardy gloves from Harbor freight. The yellow and gray ones. In fact I use them quite a bit around my place, (keep a couple pair in the truck along with leather gloves) the rubber-y, bumpy, grip works better (for me) than leather when handling most things (think pipe, fence posts, attaching tractor implements, or even picking up lumber) they don't slip, but will make your hands sweat though. (they don't work for crap for handling hay unless you're using hooks though).

[Steve]

I understand the "old hands" hanging onto the small pieces of brass part for sure. I do the pockets (both crimp removal and uniforming) on a powered unit as well. To eliminate the removal of skin from the fingers after a few dozens cases, I use the che, err, inexpensive Hardy gloves from Harbor freight. The yellow and gray ones. In fact I use them quite a bit around my place, (keep a couple pair in the truck along with leather gloves) the rubber-y, bumpy, grip works better (for me) than leather when handling most things (think pipe, fence posts, attaching tractor implements, or even picking up lumber) they don't slip, but will make your hands sweat though. (they don't work for crap for handling hay unless you're using hooks though).

I have used an old casing to burn a hole in a piece of wood to get the shape in the wood. Clamp this piece of wood to the drill press table. It acts like a brake on the tapered part of the case while using the press to run a cutter into the primer pocket. Hope this makes sense, It saved the hide on my hands from being worn away a couple of times. The next time I have a few thousand to do I am going to use a piece of tread rubber to make the brake/holder.