Lee Loader

GasGuzzler wrote:I don't use pins so they cannot get stuck in cases

ETA - I put a flash hole uniformer in my cart along with the media you suggested.

killian6pk wrote:Thanks for the reply's guys. So it appears it is split about 50/50 between wet and dry methods. I imagine that percentage will hold up across the majority of reloaders. This activity is already getting expensive even with just the loadmaster and two additional sets of dies. Plus the extra equipment to trim ect. Then add the supplies also. So I did not want to have to buy more equipment than I really needed. That was what was behind the question.

A bunch of years ago, an inexpensive case cleaning method was popular; Water, dish soap and citric acid (or lemon juice, lemoshine) and some used vinegar instead of the citric acid. Slosh a bunch of brass around until they are clean, rinse and dry. Reuse the solution until it gets dark brown/black. Inexpensive way to clean brass...

FWIW;I reloaded for 12 years before I cleaned, or tumbled any brass. I simply wiped each case with a rag as I inspected it. No scratched dies or chambers, and I didn't care what the shooter next to me at the range thought. My "brown" ammo was as accurate and functioned as well as the glossy shiny brass...

I use crushed walnut with Nufinish car wax with a Lyman 1200 and a Dillion 750. I have borrowed a FA rotary with pins to clean some disgustingly dirty brass I acquired a couple years ago that came out clean as new after a 3 hour run with a water refresh after 2 hours but otherwise I will use a vibratory tumbler and a Dillion media separator. I will change out the media when the cases come out with heavy dust in the case.